The One Place To Find Skincare Understanding

After doing many reviews on a wide variety of products, from serums to cleansers to face creams to eye creams to you name it! I found that there are terms that are quite a mystery to most of us.

I mean, when was the last time you looked up a word like “Paraben” and though you have heard it, and “know” it – because EVERYBODY talks about having “No Parabens” in their skincare products, have you actually stopped to think WHAT ARE parabens? I mean really?

Unless you are a chemistry major or a dermatologist or a doctor, you are probably like 95% of the population who just knows the words without know it!

So I thought it right to set a Skincare Lexicon to help us out with all these terms that have such a great influence to our skincare routine and our beauty…yet we are ignorant about.

This is a work in progress, I will be adding to this Lexicon as I go along, and it will be linked to from my various articles for reference sake.

Let me know if you have one or two or more interest words that you have found and would like to add to this list – every little bit helps 

So here we go

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Lipid

A class of organic compounds that are fatty acids or their derivatives and are insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents.
They include many natural oils, waxes, and steroids

Sphingosine

A basic compound which is a constituent of a number of substances important in the metabolism of nerve cells, especially sphingomyelins.

Eukaryotic

An organism whose cells contain a nucleus surrounded by a membrane and whose DNA is bound together by proteins (histones) into chromosomes.

Epidermis

The upper or outer layer of the two main layers of cells that make up the skin. The epidermis is mostly made up of flat, scale-like cells called squamous cells. (Medicine Net)

Sebum

An oil-like substance produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin that makes hair shiny and prevents skin from becoming dry. (Very Well Health)

Collagen

Collagen has many important functions, including providing your skin with structure and strengthening your bones.

It is the most abundant protein in your body. It is the major component of connective tissues that make up several body parts, including tendons, ligaments, skin, and muscles. (Healthline)

Understanding Ingredients

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a surfactant, emulsifier, and fragrance ingredient. It is derived from Lauric Acid and is also a chemical mixture of sorbitol ethylene oxide, according to Wikipedia. It is sometimes derived from fruits and berries as well, leading to its fragrant properties. Polysorbate 20 can serve as a dispersing agent and mix oil and water, work as a fragrance solubilizer and stabilizer. (Truth In Aging)

Pentylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol is synthetic humectant used in cosmetics and beauty products that is also secondarily used as a solvent and preservative. It is both water and oil-soluble and can have moisture-binding and antimicrobial properties. (Truth in Aging)

Lecithin

Lecithin is a naturally occurring lipid found in both plants and animals. According to the PETA’s Caring Consumer guide, lecithin for commercial purposes is most commonly obtain from eggs and soybeans. (Source)

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used synthetic preservative that has global approval for use in all cosmetic products in concentrations up to 1%. It’s often used in even lower amounts, such as when combined with other ingredients like ethylhexylglycerin. In this case, lower amounts of phenoxyethanol can be just as effective as the maximum approved amount. (Source)

Ethylhexylglycerin

Amino-Peptide

Isopropyl Palmitate (Palm Oil)

Due to the fact this ingredient is sourced from oil, it has many similar properties to other common oils. This molecule has a long chain oxygenated structure which can increase the skin penetration of other lipophilic substances (Cosmetic Ingredient Review).

Like many other long-chain molecules, it has been found to have skin conditioning, moisturizing, anti-static and binding properties. It has also been used as a fragrance ingredient in deodorants.

This compound has been found in a myriad of products including moisturizer, lipstick, eye shadow, conditioner, concealer and all manner of anti-aging skincare products according to the Cosmetics Database. (Source)

Phospholipids

Phospholipids are comprised of two types of fatty acid. That puts them in the lipid family, a broad group of naturally-occurring molecules which includes fats, waxes, sterols, fat-soluble vitamins (such as vitamins A, D, E, and K). The main biological functions of lipids include energy storage, as structural components of cell membranes, and as important signaling molecules. (Source)

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Basically, this is Aloe Vera Leaf Juice. This ingredient is extracted from the succulent leaves of the aloe vera plant, Aloe Barbadensis. Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice can soothe skin and serve as an anti-inflammatory. It can be efficiently used topically, because of its burn healing effects, scar reducing and wounds healing properties. Aloe protects the skin from UV damage. The herb contains aloin, which can block up to 30 percent of the ultraviolet rays when applied to the skin’s surface. (Source)

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is the oily liquid obtained by pressing the seeds of the Carthamus tinctorius plant. Linoleic acid, which is considered to be an essential fatty acid, is a major component of this oil. Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil has an extensive history of use in food. (Source)

Dicaprylyl Ether

A skin conditioner, emollient, and solvent that’s primarily used to create a smooth and soft appearance for the skin. It’s also known for its fast-spreading capabilities and is thus used to help facilitate the spreadability of many slow-spreading ingredients. (Source)

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

There is a lack of information available regarding Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate because it is a relatively new derivative of Vitamin C being used in skincare products. However, it is considered to be a very stable precursor of Vitamin C that is able to liberate the powerful antioxidant in the skin ( ScienceLab.com). (Source)

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between the connective fibers known as collagen and elastin. Sodium Hyaluronate has been used for moisturization and wound healing since its discovery in the 1930s. According to DermaDoctor.com, it is comprised of small molecules that penetrate the skin easily and can hold up to 1000 their own weight in water. (Source)

Caprylic Triglyceride

Caprylic triglyceride is an ingredient used in soaps and cosmetics. It’s usually made from combining coconut oil with glycerin. This ingredient is sometimes called capric triglyceride. It’s also sometimes mistakenly called fractionated coconut oil. (Source)

Hesperidin

Hesperidin is a bioflavonoid, a type of plant pigment with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects found primarily in unripe citrus fruit. Oranges, grapefruit, lemon, and tangerines contain hesperidin, and it is also available in supplement form.  (Source)

Tocopherol – Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol, or vitamin E, a fat-soluble vitamin is a naturally occurring antioxidant which can be isolated from vegetable oil. When isolated Tocopherol, is a viscous oil that varies in color from yellow to brownish red. Rather than Tocopherol itself, esters of Tocopherol are often used in cosmetic and personal care products. (Source)

Caprylyl Glycol

A humectant and skin conditioning agent that lends moisturization, emollience and wetting properties to many cosmetic solutions. It also functions as a stabilizer and has been shown to increase the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. (Source)

Avobenzone

Synthetic sunscreen ingredient (also known as Parsol 1789 or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) that provides broad-spectrum sun protection by absorbing aging UVA rays. Avobenzone is one of the most widely used UVA filters in the world and has been rigorously tested for safety and efficacy. (source)

Homosalate

FDA-approved sunscreen active ingredient that provides primarily UVB protection. Its UVA range is very narrow, and so it is not used alone in sunscreens. Homosalate is internationally approved for use in sunscreens, up to a maximum concentration of 15%. It’s considered non-sensitizing and is most often seen in sunscreens rated SPF 30 and greater. (source)

Octisalate

Octisalate is an organic compound used as an ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetics to absorb the full range of UVB rays from the sun, according to Wikipedia and 3dchem.com. It is a colorless liquid with an oily consistency that often emits a mildly floral fragrance. It is an ester formed by the condensation of salicylic acid with 2-ethylhexanol. The salicylate component absorbs ultraviolet light and protects the skin from the harmful effects of exposure to sunlight. The ethylhexanol portion serves as fatty alcohol, adding emollient and oil-like (water-resistant) properties. (source)

Octocrylene

Octocrylene is an organic compound and ester formed by the condensation of a diphenylcyanoacrylate with 2-ethylhexanol (a fatty alcohol, adding emollient and oil-like, water-resistant properties). It is primarily used as an active ingredient in sunscreens because of its ability to absorb UVB and short-wave UVA (ultraviolet) rays and protect the skin from direct DNA damage (Source).

Propylene glycol

Propylene Glycol, a petroleum derivative produced by propylene oxide hydration, is a versatile ingredient used in over 4,000 products and formulas in the cosmetics and beauty industry as a moisturizer, skin conditioning agent, carrier in fragrance oils, solvent and viscosity decreasing agent.

It is also a frequent food additive (as E1520) and is also found in deodorant sticks, toothpaste, mouthwash, tobacco products, and other industrial products such as anti-freeze and brake fluid (Wikipedia).

It is responsible for the consistent texture of lipstick, the consistency of lotions and formulas that contain both oil and water, the long-lasting fragrance of perfumes, and the foaming action of shampoos, according to Propylene-Glycol.com. In skin and hair care products, Propylene Glycol acts by retaining the moisture content of skin or the formula, preventing the escape of moisture or water. (source)

Glycerin

A naturally occurring ingredient (also synthetically made) that balances the water levels in skin to facilitate moisture * Also known as Glycerine or Glycerol.

Glycerin is used as a lubricant and humectant in a variety of personal care products, and as a cosmetic bonding agent for makeup. Simply stated, glycerin attracts water to the skin and helps the skin to feel smoother and softer. (source)

Isononyl Isononanoate

Synthetic ester that functions as an emollient skin-softening agent. Occurs naturally in cocoa oil and lavender oil. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined that isononyl isononanoate is safe in its current use and concentration in cosmetic products. (source)

Dimethicone

One of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetics, dimethicone works as an anti-foaming agent, skin protectant and skin & hair conditioner- it prevents water loss by forming a hydrating barrier on the skin. Like most silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin, it’s known for creating a subtle gloss that feels smooth and silky to touch. It also acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin and can fill in fine lines/wrinkles on the face, giving it a temporary “plump” look. (source)

Steareth-2

The Steareth ingredients (Steareth-2, Steareth-4, Steareth-6, Steareth-7, Steareth-10, Steareth-11, Steareth-13, Steareth-15, Steareth-20) are polyethylene glycol ethers of stearci acid. They are waxy compounds. In cosmetics and personal care products, Steareth ingredients are used in the formulation of personal cleanliness products and deodorants, as well as suntan, fragrance, skin, eye and hair products.

When added to cosmetics and personal care products, the Steareth ingredients reduce the interactive forces between molecules of other liquids so that an emulsion is formed. If an ingredient such as a Steareth is not added to some personal care products, the ingredients in the product would separate like some salad dressings. (source)

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of vitamin C combined with glucose. When properly formulated and absorbed into skin, it breaks down to ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C). It functions as an antioxidant and works well with other replenishing and antioxidant ingredients to preserve key substances skin needs to look smoother, brighter, and younger. (source)

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Ethylhexyl palmitate is a derivative of palm oil often used as an organic replacement to silicone. It has a ‘dry-slip’ feel that is very similar to silicone’s texture. It is found in many skincare products as an ingredient used to adjust the consistency. (source)

Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer

Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used as a film former in cosmetics and personal care products that has opaque properties and is seen in a variety of formulas, including those for sunscreens and other lotions, according to CosmeticsCop.com. Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer has large molecules that do not penetrate the skin.(source)

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Acts as a skin conditioning agent and viscosity (thickness) increasing agent. Its function as a dermal conditioner is two-fold. Firstly, it helps retain moisture and lessen the loss of water by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface. Secondly, it also works to reduce the appearance of rough patches and dry flakes on the skin. Many prefer this ingredient as a moisturizer because of its content of unsaponifiable fats- meaning that, unlike other fatty oils, it does not turn into soap when in the presence of a potent alkali, thus retaining its moisturizing abilities. (source)

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer is a film former used in cosmetics and beauty products, as well as a viscosity increasing agent, according to research. It is a porous polymer that absorbs the excess of sebum or acne-producing oils. It is formed when a copolymer of methyl methacrylate (an organic ester) is crosslinked with glycol dimethacrylate (Wikipedia).

Hexylresorcinol

Traditionally found in mouthwashes and throat lozenges thanks to its antiseptic and anesthetic properties, Hexylresorcinol has also been used to treat minor cuts, scrapes and skin infections (source). Recently, however, its ability to target pathways in the skin that lead to hyperpigmentation has propelled it into the skin lightening ingredient category. There is also thought that Hexylresorcinol has more benefits as well, including an ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, increase protection against UVB and UVA rays, and improve the skin’s barrier against pollution and sun exposure (source).

Steareth-21

Steareth 21 is a polyethylene glycol ether made from stearic acid. It is used as an emulsifier in cosmetics and personal care products, including makeup, lotions, personal cleanliness products and deodorants, as well as suntan, fragrance, skin, eye and hair care products.
The Steareths are “prepared by reacting ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol where the numerical value in the name corresponds to the average number of units of ethylene oxide.
Therefore, Steareth 21 is prepared using an average of 21 units of ethylene oxide reacted with stearyl alcohol, and is relatively liquid compared to higher Steareth values, which become waxy solids (CosmeticsInfo.org and other research). (source)

Behenyl Alcohol

Behenyl alcohol, also known as docosanol, is a large fatty straight-chain alcohol. In cosmetic and skincare formulations, it is used as an opacifying ingredient, thickener, and emulsifier. As an opacifying agent, behenyl alcohol is used to reduce the clear or transparent appearance of cosmetic products. Its thickening property allows products to achieve a more desirable, spreadable texture.

Behenyl alcohol also works as an emulsifier to prevent the oil and water phases of a product from separating. This works to improve the consistency of a product, which enables an even distribution of topical skincare benefits.¹  (source)

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone crosspolymer is a silicone derivative that functions as a skin and hair conditioning agent, film-forming agent, thickening agent, and texture enhancer in cosmetics and personal care products. (source)

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

According to the Cosmetics Database, this ingredient is used to increase the viscosity of a product due to its high molecular weight. It is manufactured by the company Clariant and gives products ‘a super-smooth, velvety skin feel.’ It works over a wide pH range and is useful in the general stabilization of water/oil-based formulations. It’s found in moisturizers, sunscreen and anti-aging skincare (Cosmetics Database).

Sodium Hydroxide

Also known as lye, sodium hydroxide is a highly alkaline ingredient used in small amounts in cosmetics to establish and hold the pH of a product.

It’s also used as a cleansing and denaturing agent. In high concentrations, it’s a significant skin sensitizer.

References for this information:
Acta dermato-venereologica, March 1995, pages 97-101
http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-hydroxide

(source)

Sclerotium Gum

Sclerotium Gum is a water-soluble, nature-derived polysaccharide produced by fermentation of the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is a highly versatile ingredient, which improves the sensory characteristic of personal care products. Scleroglucan has rheological properties, and unlike most natural and synthetic gums, has high thermal stability, is resistant to hydrolysis and retains skin moisture. Due to its efficiency as a thickening agent, emulsifier and stabilizer, sclerotium gum is used in numerous cosmetic and personal care formulations. (source)

Mica

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral dust often used in makeup foundations, as filler in cement and asphalt, and as insulation material in electric cables. Workers in cosmetic manufacturing factories are at high risk of mica exposure through inhalation. (source)

Titanium Dioxide

Inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. It protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered no risk of skin sensitivity. Because its gentle, titanium dioxide is a great sunscreen active for sensitive, redness-prone skin. It’s great for use around the eyes, as it is highly unlikely to cause stinging.

Titanium dioxide is typically micronized and coated for use in cosmetics products (source)

Methylparaben

Methylparaben is an antifungal and preservative that is widely used in cosmetics. Because it is easily absorbed through the skin and is generally considered non-irritating, it is a very popular beauty product ingredient (Wikpedia) and is used to prevent fungal growth and to generally preserve formulas. (source)

Disodium EDTA

EDTA (ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid) and its salts, Calcium Disodium EDTA, Diammonium EDTA, Dipotassium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tripotassium EDTA and Trisodium EDTA, and the related ingredients HEDTA (hydroxyethyl ethylenediamine triacetic acid) and its trisodium salt, Trisodium HEDTA, are crystalline powders often sold as aqueous solutions.

In cosmetics and personal care products, these ingredients are widely used and can be found in moisturizers, skincare, and cleansing products, personal cleanliness products, bath soaps, shampoos and conditioners, hair dyes, hair bleaches, and many other product types. (source)

Ethylparaben

Ethylparaben is a paraben and preservative found in many skincare products, ranging from skin cream to body lotion to deodorant. It can be found in essential oils used to treat dry skin and in primrose oil serving as an anti-septic. Although parabens are generally considered safe when used in low percentages (.04% – .08%), a study claimed to have found a link between parabens and breast cancer. (Read more here)

Propylparaben

Propylparaben is the propyl ester of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, occurs as a natural substance found in many plants and some insects, although it is manufactured synthetically for use in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and foods, according to Wikipedia. It is used as a preservative for its anti-fungal and anti-microbial properties to extend the shelf life of beauty and cosmetic products. It is considered non-toxic, non-sensitizing and non-irritating at .05 to 1% concentrations. (source)

Cyclohexasiloxane

Primarily works as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. Like all other silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable.
When applied to the skin, it gives a silky & slippery feeling to the touch and acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin. It can also fill in fine lines/wrinkles, giving the face a temporary “plump” look. (Source)

Isohexadecane

Isohexadecane is a high purity, iso-paraffin emollient and solvent used in cosmetics and beauty products. Although it is colorless and odorless, it creates a very creamy, thick formula.
However, for all of its rich texture, Isohexadecane leaves a non-greasy, light and silky feeling on the skin.
It is most often found in foundations, sun care products, lip products, deodorants and antiperspirants and makeup removers (source).

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Very little information is available regarding Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate. The Cosmetic Database notes its uses as an emollient, binder, skin conditioning agent, and viscosity increasing agent. Further research reveals that it can be vegetable derived ester, and is a slightly yellowish liquid with good emulsification stability (Source).

Dipropylene Glycol

Dipropylene glycol is a type of alcohol that is used in cosmetics and personal care products as a solvent, viscosity-decreasing agent, masking agent, and fragrance ingredient. (Source)

Stearic Acid

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid found primarily in animal derivatives, but in vegetable fats as well. It is used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products, as a fragrance ingredient, surfactant, and emulsifier. It is also used as the base for the manufacture of other fatty acid ingredients which are used as emulsifiers, emollients, and lubricants, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. It is also used as an ingredient in candles, plastics, dietary supplements, oil pastels, and for softening rubber; it is a frequent ingredient in soaps made from vegetable oil and is used to harden the product. (Source)

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic Acid is fatty acid found naturally in skin and used as the basis for many palmitate ingredients, such as isopropyl palmitate.
Palmitic acid has many functions in cosmetics, from detergent cleansing agent to emollient.
In a cleanser, it has the potential to be drying depending on what it’s combined with and the cleanser’s pH level. In moisturizers, palmitic acid is a very good emollient. (Source)

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane (its full chemical name is decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), commonly known as D5, is a chemical that belongs to the group of cyclomethicones aka methyl siloxanes.
Siloxanes are found in lots of hair care and skin care products as conditioners that leave hair and skin with a soft, silky, and moist feeling. (Source)

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Acrylamide/Sodium is mostly used as a thickener and stabilizer in a variety of cosmetic products ranging from decorative make-up to hair care (shampoo, conditioners and styling products) and skincare such as cleansers and moisturizers as well as body washes.
It is classified as an Emulsion stabilizer and viscosity control. (Source)

PEG-100 Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate is made by combining natural oils (oftentimes palm or coconut) with Stearic Acid to form a water-soluble ester. It can also be a synthetic polymer made by combining Oxirane (Ethylene Oxide) and fatty acids (source).
PEG-100 Stearate is primarily used by the cosmetics and beauty care industry as an emollient, an emulsifier and a moisturizer, although PEG Stearates, in general, are also known to clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. (Source)

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol is a naturally occurring fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid, coconut oil or vegetable fatty acids, and is used to soothe and soften as a conditioning agent and as an emulsifier. It is often found as a hair coating ingredient in shampoos and conditioners, and an emollient in creams and lotions for the skin (Sci-Toys.com and Wikipedia). It can also be used to thicken formulas, adding body and viscosity. (Source)

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE are esterification products of glycerin and stearic acid. Glyceryl Stearate is a white or cream-colored wax-like solid.
Glyceryl Stearate SE is a “Self-Emulsifying” form of Glyceryl Stearate that also contains a small amount of sodium and or potassium stearate.
In cosmetics and personal care products, Glyceryl Stearate is widely used and can be found in lotions, creams, powders, skin cleansing products, makeup bases and foundations, mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner, hair conditioners and rinses, and suntan and sunscreen products. (Source)

Boswellia Serrata Extract

Resin from the Boswella Serrata tree found in parts of Asia and Africa is commonly used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine for a variety of disorders associated with inflammation.
It has been used medicinally for centuries and is now gaining support through research. The main ingredients of the resin are boswellic acids. Boswellic acids have anti-inflammatory effects when applied topically. Preparations using either the resin or pure boswellic acid extracted from the resin can help treat inflammatory disorders such as osteoarthritis, eczema, and psoriasis.
The extract helps reduce sun damage, fine lines, and acne. It stimulates collagen production. Also, it aids in wound healing and inhibits tumor growth. Research shows Boswellia Serrata extract has a variety of useful anti-inflammatory effects and can help alleviate the symptoms of a variety of conditions. This extract has been popularized as Boswelox™ by L’Oreal and its Wrinkle-de-crease. (Source)

Manganese Gluconate

This is a mineral found in trace amounts in tissues of the body. While manganese plays a vital role in the processes of many-body systems, there is no evidence it serves any purpose topically on the skin, though it may act as an antioxidant. (Source)

Soluble Collagen

Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin.
The strong point of collagen is being a large molecule with tremendous water-binding capacity, i.e. an amazing humectant and moisturizer. It produces a water-rich film on the skin giving the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin) great hydration, making it nice and smooth and reducing a trans-epidermal-water loss (the process of water evaporating out of your skin). (Source)

Atelocollagen

Works as a hydrating agent by holding in moisture. Also believed to have anti-aging abilities, such as softening & diminishing the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles. Used in a variety of products such as facial lotions/creams, anti-aging serums, eye creams, face masks, sunscreens, and lip balms. (Source)

Dimethiconol

This ingredient functions as a skin/hair conditioner, anti-foaming agent and emollient. Like most silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin, it’s known for creating a subtle gloss that feels smooth and silky to touch. It also acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin and can fill in fine lines/wrinkles on the face, giving it a temporary “plump” look. (Source)

Polysorbate 80

Polysorbate 80 is primarily used in cosmetics and beauty products as a surfactant and emulsifier because of its ability to help other ingredients dissolve in a solvent in which they normally would not be able to dissolve, specifically in the case of oil in water (CosmeticsInfo.org).
It can also help to reduce the surface tension of substances that need to be emulsified. It is seen in a variety of formulas, including skin fresheners, skincare products, skin cleansing products, makeup bases and foundations, shampoos, and fragrance powders, as well as food products. (Source)

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Non-aqueous ester that functions as a thickener and binding agent, derived from the ingredient isostearic acid. (Source)

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a silica derivative used in cosmetics and personal care products as an anticaking agent, bulking agent, slip modifier, viscosity increasing agent, emollient, and most often as a suspending agent, according to Silicone Specialties (with the Danish Environmental Protection Agencies) and CosmeticsCop.com.
It is often found in cosmetics and lip products because of its ability to thicken while moisturizing and provide long-lasting wear. (Source)

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate is a derivative of a natural mucopolysaccharide or a component “found in connective tissue, skin, bone, and cartilage together with proteins from the intercellular cells where collagen and elastin are embedded” (SkinCareInnovation.com).
It is used as a skin conditioning agent (and sometimes seen in hair products as well) because of its ability to moisturize, heal, and soothe skin with its anti-inflammatory properties and ability to reinforce skin’s intercellular matrix, according to CosmeticsCop.com (Source)

Imidazolidinyl Urea

This is a preservative considered weaker than its “cousin” Diazolidinyl urea. Most often used with parabens because they work well together. Imidazolidinyl urea is considered a formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Although that sounds scary, the amount of formaldehyde released is well below the limits for safe exposure. (Source)

Potassium Sorbate

* A mild preservative * Please read TIA’s post on Why Products Need Preservatives.
Potassium Sorbate is a mild preservative being used in cosmetic and skincare formulas as a paraben alternative to prevent or retard the growth of microorganisms and protect products from spoiling, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
Developed from Sorbic Acid, which is naturally found in the berries of the mountain ash tree, Potassium Sorbate is effective against fungi, mold and yeast, but less active against bacteria, and therefore not considered a broad spectrum preservative; it needs to be used in conjunction with other preservatives to ensure formulas are totally protected.
It is used in a wide variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including facial, eye and hair care formulas. (Source)

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is a colorless or pale straw-colored liquid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is used in the formulation of aftershave lotions, bath products, bubble baths, hair care products, moisturizers, perfumes and colognes, shampoos and skincare products. (Source)

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Synthetic fragrance ingredient with a strong floral scent. (Also goes by the name 2-(4-tert-Butylbenzyl) propionaldehyde or lilial.) Butylphenyl methylpropional’s use in cosmetics is restricted due to concerns over sensitivity. 
The presence of butylphenyl methylpropional must be indicated in the list of ingredients if the product contains more than 0.001% and is meant to be left on skin; it also must be listed if the product contains more than 0.01% and is meant to be rinsed, like cleansers and shampoos. (Source)

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzyl salicylate is a salicylic acid benzyl ester, a chemical compound most frequently used in cosmetics as a fragrance additive or UV light absorber. It appears as an almost colorless liquid with a mild odor described as “very faint, sweet-floral, slightly balsamic” by those who can smell it, but many people either can’t smell it at all or describe its smell as “musky”.
Trace impurities may have a significant influence on the odor. It occurs naturally in a variety of plants and plant extracts and is widely used in blends of fragrance materials. (Source)

Linalool

Linalool is a colorless to very pale yellow liquid with a floral smell similar to that of bergamot oil and French lavender. It is a naturally occurring substance that is used to make fragrances and flavors.
In cosmetics and personal care products, Linalool is used in the formulation of aftershave lotions, bath products, bubble baths, cleansing products, hair care products, lipsticks, moisturizers, perfumes and colognes, shampoos, skin care products, and suntan products. (Source)

Hexyl Cinnamal

* A natural fragrance additive * Also known as Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde. Hexyl Cinnamal is a natural ingredient used in perfumes and other beauty products as a fragrance additive. It is derived from chamomile oil and is used as a masking ingredient in many foundations and skin creams (Source).

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

*A perfume ingredient * Also known as Lyral.
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde is a fragrance and masking ingredient used in many skin care products.
Developed in the 1960s, this combination of myrcenol and acrolein is used for its long-lasting, powerful scent reminiscent of Lily of the Valley.
It is considered one of the “Top 10 Scents” of the past 25 years, according to The European Union, and is found in over 35% of all beauty products. (Source)

Citronellol

Citronellol is a colorless oily liquid with a floral smell suggestive of rose. In cosmetics and personal care products, Citronellol is used in the formulation of aftershave lotions, bath products, bubble baths, cleansing products, hair care products, lipsticks, moisturizers, perfumes and colognes, and skincare products. (Source)

Cetyl Alcohol

A fatty alcohol that’s either produced from the end products of the petroleum industry or derived from plants (palm oil-palmityl alcohol). It comes in the form of a white, waxy solid. It’s no longer derived from sperm whale oil (where it was originally discovered) seeing how whales are now an endangered species. (Source)

Panthenol – Vitamin B5

Panthenol is the provitamin of B5 because and is used in cosmetics and beauty products primarily as a lubricant, emollient and moisturizer because of its ability to bind to the hair and penetrate the skin, providing both with lubrication and hydration. (Source)

Retinol

Name for the entire vitamin A molecule. Retinol is a powerhouse ingredient that has value for the skin on several fronts: It’s a skin-restoring, wrinkle-smoothing, firming ingredient and an antioxidant, allowing it to improve a variety of skin concerns, most related to visible signs of aging. (Source)

Propolis Extract

Brownish, resinous material that is collected by bees and used to construct the hive. (Source)

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) is a well-known herb traditionally used in the treatment of skin damage as well as for circulatory enhancement. This is a specialized extraction employed for the concentration of the active constituents for enhanced therapeutic benefits to the skin. (Source)

Equisetum Arvense Extract – Horsetail

Equisetum Arvense contains saponins, flavonoids, and silica, which are attributed to the herb’s ability to strengthen and regenerate skin tissue.

Thanks to its high levels of silica (which gives it a very smoothing, softening effect on skin) and its diuretic properties, it can be used as an astringent and has also been used to heal wounds and improve circulation.

Equisetum Arvense contains manganese, magnesium, iron, and copper, all bio-minerals necessary for collagen and elastin creation (Source).

Geranium Maculatum Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens is a geranium extract used in cosmetics and personal care products as a fragrance ingredient.

It is cultivated in large numbers in South Africa, and known for its rose-like scent, although it is also used for other smells it imparts, including citrus, mint, coconut, and nutmeg, as well as various fruits.

It is sometimes known as rose geranium, old fashion rose geranium, and rose-scent geranium, according to Wikipedia. It is considered a less expensive alternative to other rose oils, and is often used in aromatherapy formulas as well. (Source)

Xanthan Gum

According to Dermaxime.com, Xanthan Gum is used as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifying surfactant, as well as an aqueous viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics and personal care products because of its capability to hold water, enhance freeze-thaw stability, and improve shelf life and help with the stabilization of a product.

A polysaccharide derived from glucose or sucrose (sugars), Xanthan Gum is able to increase the viscosity of liquids even when used at less than 1% concentration. It is also thought to have skin-conditioning properties. (Source)

Ethylhexyglycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin, or octoxyglycerin, is an alkyl glyceryl ether. This means that the ethylhexyl group is bound to glycerin at one end by an ether linkage. It is derived from vegetable glycerin. Ethylhexylglycerin was first introduced to the cosmetic market in 1992 as a skincare additive and deodorant active called Sensiva SC50. (Source)

Cassia Angustifolia Seed Extracts

The pharmacology world recognizes this ingredient as a powerful cathartic that relieves constipation, as well as an expectorant, wound dresser, anti dysenteric and carminative. Sennasoides are frequently extracted from the plant and used as a natural laxative. (Source)

Deionized Water

Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product’s stability and performance. (Source)

Alcohol

“Alcohol” refers to a group of organic compounds with a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics and in other types of products and solutions. 

For skin, there are good alcohols and bad alcohols, corresponding to high-molecular-weight alcohols and low-molecular-weight alcohols, respectively, which can have emollient properties (cetyl alcohol) or act as detergent cleansing agents like isopropanol.  (Source)

Organic Sunflower Oil

Non-volatile, non-fragrant plant oil used as an emollient in cosmetics. Sunflower seed oil has the ability to help replenish and soothe skin. It’s a rich source of fatty acids skin can use, including linoleic acid, and is excellent for dry skin. (Source)

Botanical Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally-occurring substance in the skin known for its stunning capacity to attract and hold onto 1000x its weight in moisture. It works overtime by replenishing skin to enhance a healthy, supple look and feel. (Source)

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Organic Jojoba Oil

Emollient, non-fragrant oil (technically, a polyunsaturated wax) extracted from the seeds of a perennial shrub. Jojoba oil has been shown to enhance skin’s restorative properties. 

A plant oil that’s a rich source of numerous fatty acids, jojoba oil can also provide topical skin-soothing benefits (Source)

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract – Organic Green Tea

Biologically speaking, a significant amount of scientific evidence points to the antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic properties of green tea.

Many studies, including those conducted by the American Association for Cancer Research and in the journal Preventative Medicine, have demonstrated how drinking green tea can help prevent the formation of cancerous tumors, in both mice and humans. (Source)

Taraxacum Officinale Extract – Organic Dandelion

Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Extract is an extract of the rhizomes and roots of the dandelion, Taraxacum officinale.

Function(s): Skin-Conditioning Agent – Miscellaneous (Source)

Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer

Sorbitan Oleate is the monoester of oleic acid (a source of omegas) and hexitol anhydrides derived from sorbitol (often used as a humectant).

It is used in a variety of formulas used in the cosmetic industry, including skin care products, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, eye makeup, and other makeup, according to RealSelf.com.

Although also seen as a fragrance ingredient and surfactant, it is primarily used as an emulsifier and is especially suited formulations containing vegetable oils (LotionCrafter.com).

It is considered a good co-emulsifier for lotions and other emulsions. (Source)

Witch Hazel

Like many plant-derived substances, witch hazel is a source of several antioxidants, many of which benefit skin; however, one main antioxidant is a group of chemicals known as tannins.

Applied to the skin, tannins have a constricting and drying effect. They compress proteins in the skin, creating an invisible “film” that can, to a minor degree, temporarily de-grease skin and minimize the look of enlarged pores. (source)

Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM)

MSM is found in a wide variety of cosmetic products, including antiperspirant/deodorant, (Annex 4). MSM is claimed to be anti-inflammatory and to moisturize, soften and rejuvenate dry, aging, or damaged skin.

Niacinamide – Vitamin B3

Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface.

Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin to repair signs of past damage.

Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin appear older, dull, and less radiant.

Squalene

Squalene is found naturally in the sebum of human skin and is believed to lubricate and protect the skin. 

Squalane, its hydrogenated cousin, is widely used as a conditioner, emollient and carrier oil in cosmetic formulations. (source)

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

A skin conditioning agent that works by enhancing the appearance of dry/damaged skin, reducing dry patches/flaking and restoring suppleness to the skin. As an ester of salicylic acid (aka beta hydroxy acid or BHA), it’s categorized as a BHA that works as an exfoliant, anti-inflammatory, and antiseptic. (source)

Organic Rosa Canina (Rosehip Seed Oil)

Rosehip oil is rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants, which are integral for tissue and cell regeneration in the skin.

It helps reduce scars and fine lines. (source)

Carbomer

Carbomer is a term used for a series of polymers primarily made from acrylic acid. The Carbomers are white, fluffy powders but are frequently used as gels in cosmetics and personal care products.

Carbomers can be found in a wide variety of product types including skin, hair, nail, and makeup products, as well as dentifrices.

The Carbomers help to distribute or suspend an insoluble solid in a liquid. They are also used to keep emulsions from separating into their oil and liquid components.

Carbomers are often used to control the consistency and flow of cosmetics and personal care products. (Source)

Amino-5-guanidinopentanoic Acid

Amino-5-guanidinopentanoic Acid is a chain of amino acids that not much is written about in “layman’s” way.

If you have a chemistry or medical background your may find PubChem site useful.

In general Amino acids and their salts are widely used as cosmetic ingredients, and function primarily as hair conditioning agents and skin conditioning agents (humectant and miscellaneous).
The 21 most common naturally occurring amino acids also are building blocks of proteins. As such, amino acids are critical to life and metabolic function. (source)

Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree Essential Oil)

Tea tree oil which is also known as melaleuca oil is a highly effective essential oil which has multiple uses and benefits.

This oil is extracted from the Melaleuca Alternifolia and can be applied to the face and body to treat pimples and as an active ingredient for skincare products. (source)

Lavandula Augustifolia (Lavender Essential Oil)

For skincare, the lavender essential oil stands out for being a great skin cell regenerator.

It is very used in treatments of acne, dehydrated and abused skin, as well as sensitive skin.

This oil has anti-inflammatory effects. Thanks to this, it is used as a method to treat burns, inflammations, psoriasis, and wounds. (Source)

Ylang Ylang Essential Oil

The ylang-ylang is commonly used to balance the skin and treat acne and blemishes, as well as stimulating the growth of new cells, releasing tight muscles and to smooth wrinkles.

Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, it can also help to relieve inflammatory conditions of the skin.

It can be added to hair products to help prevent hair loss and split ends while improving the condition and brightness. (source)

 

^{1 Elder, R. L. Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. J Am Coll Toxicol 7.3, 359-413 (1988) (Source)}